The latest NYC fashion week has taken all the places of our conversations. Just after the announcement of the schedule change, NYFW has really stood up nicely. With the overwhelming schedule, many fashion critics and trend followers find the shows either too cliché or too weird. It is fair to say that the unceasing demands in the industry is exhausting the inspirational source of many great designers. Many trends survived season after season, which really tells us something is not right (speaking form this girl who read 30 magazines a month)! In that perspective, combining mensware with womensware is really a brilliant idea, especially since the theme of unisex is huge lately (Vetement, Hood by Air, rag & bone, etc.).
However, the NYFW really hit me right on the sweet spot; runway shows really took a much more diverse focus and street styles became personal again. Exactly like the quote of the innovation designer Alexander Wang, which states that ” This is how I see people dress around me.” The most complimented NYFW shows Always, ALWAYS include aspects from the street. That is exactly what make New York Fashion Week so different and unique. This city is full of diversity and clearly the idea shows through the way people are dressed. By taking a step forward, the avant-garde designers not only get their audience leaving the room, screaming ” Amazing”; their items get to sell, because there will always be people who feel represented by their designs (and many who just follow “the newest things”). Shows such as Marc Jacobs, Hood by Air, Alexander Wang and J.W. Anderson gained so much popularity over the medias season after season, proven our favoring of the New and the Different.
Although the Gothic vibe at Marc Jacobs really freaked me out at the first sight, I got to give it the credit, for the sake of fashion of course. Hood by Air brought back the sporty trends but made it so different by using reflective materials and oversized baggy shaped designs. Alexander Wang just has this ability to make every thing Wang like, yet, new and fresh each season. In my opinion, his dedication to his own brand was the main cause of his mediocre performance at Balenciaga, After all, not many people leave a billion dollar job with a huge smile on the face.
Gaga walks for Marc Jacobs
Hood by Air
Alexander Wang‘s stripper sweaters will surely be a hit!
Bring back the beautiful
Apart from the modern designs, we also observed many classical beauties. Continuing the trends that Valentino and Zuhair Muradstarted in Haute Couture (link to the show here and here), some designers really seduced buyers with dreamy silhouettes, flowy textures, harmonious colour patterns and sophisticated designs.
The theme of exoticism is clearly the right move that got incorporated in many collections, such as Marchesa and Rodart. People who went to theses shows were absolutely blown away by the incredible details on the dresses; especially at Marchesa. I’m pretty sure that all women who walked out of that room had realized that they’ve lived their lives wanting to own a dress from that show. The variety of textures, patterns and materials just made the whole collection a huge success. It is so aesthetically pleasing that I can’t even convince myself to close the page on Vogue. Then, Rodarte being another highly rated show this season, clearly combined the aspect of classical beauty with modern design. Although Gothetic, it is completely different from Marc Jacobs. The Mulleavy sisters really took took a specific focus on the romantic feminine aspects of Gothicism.
Others like DelPozo and Proenza Schouler brought some tailoring action back to the game. DelPozo showed some vivid colors and giant oversize clothing, highlights the design aspect of fashion. Models in this season’s collection became the embellishments of these art pieces. Whereas, Proenza Schouler hit it hard with perfect fits that are meant to embody women’s figures; the waist line, the shoulder length, the off-shoulder sleeves… every inches of the fabrics were dedicated to cover the skin with elegance and délicatesse.
Pragmatism never goes out of style.
Here comes the most popular shows of the entire week: Ralph Laurent, Michael Kors and Calvin Klein; featuring all the clothes that should go into your wardrobe. Within these shows, we saw a lot of fur coats, neutral colors, trendy trousers, yada yada yada… The idea is to make everything flirty and moves (acording to Michael Kors at least ). To be honest,I think these ideas are a little too obvious, the same style come back again and again with no surprise, nor disappointment: you get exactly what you expected (ManRepeller). Which, is not a bad thing, the practicality behind these brands is really what makes them the pillars of the American fashion industry. Celebrities and A-list bloggers are frequently seen on the front rows on these shows ( like Blake Lively and Chiara Ferragani). Afterall, which one do you think people will wear on the street? Giant flower dress or baby blue turtle neck swearer?
Ralph Laurent, have to say that I love the liquid gold texture.
In fact, many trends were repetitive on the Runway, such as fur coats, menswear fabrics, sporty trends. But the most precious thing about NYFW is how the diversity was built in this concrete jungle. People of all groups could find styles that represent their own beliefs identities in the industry. The variety of styles on the Runway draws attention to the concrete idea that fashion is, indeed personal.
All Images via http://vogue.com