NYFW: Building on the concrete

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The latest NYC fashion week has taken all the places of our conversations. Just after the announcement of the schedule change, NYFW has really stood up nicely. With the overwhelming schedule, many fashion critics and trend followers find the shows either too cliché or too weird. It is fair to say that the unceasing demands in the industry is exhausting the inspirational source of many great designers. Many trends survived season after season, which really tells us something is not right (speaking form this girl who read 30 magazines a month)! In that perspective, combining mensware with womensware is really a brilliant idea, especially since the theme of unisex is huge lately (Vetement, Hood by Air, rag & bone, etc.).

 

However, the NYFW really hit me right on the sweet spot; runway shows really took a much more  diverse focus and street styles became personal again. Exactly like the quote of the innovation designer Alexander Wang, which states that ” This is how I see people dress around me.” The most complimented NYFW shows Always, ALWAYS include aspects from the street. That is exactly what make New York Fashion Week so different and unique. This city is full of diversity and clearly the idea shows through the way people are dressed.  By taking a step forward, the avant-garde designers not only get their audience leaving the room, screaming ” Amazing”; their items get to sell, because there will always be people who feel represented by their designs (and many who just follow “the newest things”).  Shows such as Marc Jacobs,  Hood by AirAlexander Wang and J.W. Anderson gained so much popularity over the medias season after season,  proven our favoring of the New and  the Different.

Although the Gothic vibe at Marc Jacobs really freaked me out at the first sight, I got to give it the credit, for the sake of fashion of course. Hood by Air brought back the sporty trends but made it so different by using reflective materials and oversized baggy shaped designs. Alexander Wang just has this ability to make every thing Wang like, yet, new and fresh each season. In my opinion, his dedication to his own brand was the main cause of his mediocre performance at BalenciagaAfter all, not many people leave a billion dollar job with a huge smile on the face.

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Gaga walks for Marc Jacobs

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Hood by Air

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Alexander Wang‘s stripper sweaters will surely be a hit!

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J.W. Anderson

Bring back the beautiful 

Apart from the modern designs, we also observed many classical beauties. Continuing the trends that Valentino and Zuhair Muradstarted in  Haute Couture (link to the show here and here), some designers really seduced buyers with dreamy silhouettes, flowy textures, harmonious colour patterns and sophisticated designs.

The theme of exoticism is clearly the right move that got incorporated in many collections, such as Marchesa and Rodart. People who went to theses shows were absolutely blown away by the incredible details on the dresses; especially at Marchesa. I’m pretty sure that all women who walked out of that room had realized that they’ve lived their lives wanting to own a dress from that show.  The variety of textures, patterns and materials just made the whole collection a huge success. It is so aesthetically pleasing that I can’t even convince myself to close the page on Vogue. Then, Rodarte being another highly rated show this season, clearly combined the aspect of classical beauty with modern design.  Although Gothetic, it is completely different from Marc Jacobs.  The Mulleavy sisters really took  took a specific focus on the romantic feminine aspects of Gothicism.

Others like DelPozo and Proenza Schouler brought some tailoring action back to the game.  DelPozo showed some vivid colors and giant oversize clothing, highlights the design aspect of fashion. Models in this season’s collection became the embellishments of these art pieces. Whereas, Proenza Schouler hit it hard with perfect fits that are meant to embody women’s figures; the waist line, the shoulder length, the off-shoulder sleeves… every inches of the fabrics were dedicated to cover the skin with elegance and délicatesse.

 

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Marchesa

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Marchesa

 

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Proenza Schouler

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Rodarte

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DelPozo

Pragmatism never goes out of style.

Here comes the most popular shows of the entire week: Ralph Laurent, Michael Kors and Calvin Klein; featuring all the clothes that should go into your wardrobe.  Within these shows, we saw a lot of fur coats, neutral colors, trendy trousers, yada yada yada… The idea is to make everything flirty and moves (acording to Michael Kors at least ).  To be honest,I think these ideas are a little too obvious, the same style come back again and again with no surprise, nor disappointment: you get exactly what you expected (ManRepeller). Which, is not a bad thing, the practicality behind these brands is really what makes them the pillars of the American fashion industry. Celebrities and A-list bloggers are frequently seen on the front rows on these shows ( like Blake Lively and Chiara Ferragani). Afterall, which one do you think people will wear on the street? Giant flower dress or baby blue turtle neck swearer?

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Michael Kors

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Calvin Klein

 

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Ralph Laurent, have to say that I love the liquid gold texture.

In fact, many trends were repetitive on the Runway, such as fur coats, menswear fabrics, sporty trends. But the most precious thing about NYFW is how the diversity was built  in this concrete jungle. People of all groups could find styles that represent their own beliefs identities in the industry. The variety of styles on the Runway draws attention to the concrete idea that fashion is, indeed personal.

 

-XO

Claire

All Images via http://vogue.com

 

 

From Runway to Highstreet: trends that you should look forward for spring.

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Although the weather is still cold in most places, the spring 2016 ready to wear already came in style. Right off the runway, here’s a few trends that you should expect to see all around. Get it before all the girls in your neighborhood own it! After all, part of the fashion is about who gets it first.

1. EVERY shades of Green (especially Olive)
The two pastel Colours of the year seem to get very little attention, it’s no surprise that after few years of its peak, people finally understand that although pleasing to the eyes, pastels aren’t easy to pull off. From Military jackets to Elizabeth Taylor’s earrings, green is a much more versatile color. Not only its huge on the Runway, its becoming more and more popular around us.  Well, Parkas are coming back in trend again, olive jackets are seen everywhere. Have an item in mind? Get it in Green! Any shade!

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Celine 2016 Spring RTW

2.Ivory and All WHITE

Real excitement for one of my favorite trend to be continuing this year.  Words aren’t enough for classic nude colours that go well with everything. Chic and timeless, definitely something you should try.

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Hood by Air 2016 Spring RTW

3. More subtle floral prints

Here it comes the never ending floral trend. But I think it will come in much subtler ways, such as small area prints or seamless embroidery that blend the freshness of spring into the weightless fabrics.

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Gucci 2016 Spring RTW

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Alexander McQueen 2016 Spring RTW

4. Unisex items

Well, you might say that many designers are bringing sexy back on the runway, but Is sexy ever out on the high street? I’m not talking about boxer jackets and combat boots, but wearing clothes that men would wear, not unisex items from American Apparel but real men’s wear like humongous blazer and navy argyle sweater. The trend was further accentuated in the per-fall adverts.

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Vetement 2016 spring RTW

5. Vetement
If you are a regular fashion blogger stalker (I confess), you should probably see the brand somewhere at least. I’m not sure the brand went viral before shown by fashionistas or did they became a hit after everyone started wearing it. It is fair to say that the highly appreciated  brand is bringing the cool back (originally said by Sarah Mower on Vogue.com).

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Vetement 2016 Spring RTW

The problem with ready to wear or Pre-Fall is that the designer’s aesthetics may conflict with what might actually sell. It’s great that they always find the perfect combination of both. The show remained us once more, that fabrics can be managed in infinite ways to be sexy, strong, cool… Which gives everyone a fitted position in this awesome, sometimes scary but marvelous world of fashion.

XO from Claire

All images

retrieved from Vogue.com